Things are starting to get
serious now. Everything we do for the next four weeks is going to be directed at getting the engine
running. We made a list of all the tasks required, everything from installing the fuse box to
filling the engine with oil, and it worked out to 53 steps. The longest, at six hours, is installing
the engine. We think we can beat that time, but you never know, so we'll leave it at six hours.
The total hours for all 53 steps is 112. We think we can beat that, too. Each step is budgeted for
at least one hour, and we're pretty sure we can do some of them, like attaching the return springs
to the pedals, in just a few minutes. But some of the steps might take longer than we estimated, so we'll
stick with the 112 hours. And just like we did with the rolling chassis, we'll count down the steps
and hours as we go along for those of you keeping score at home.
Still a few parts short of drivable
Unfortunately, getting the car running won't be the same as taking it for its first drive. For
that, we'll need three items we don't have yet: a fuel tank, shocks, and probably most important, a
driveshaft. To start the engine we can let the fuel pump draw from one of our many red plastic gas
containers, but when we're driving the car we may want something less likely to spill. Springs and
shocks would also be a good idea, less for the comfort of the driver and more to reduce stress on
the chassis.
So the first drive will be a few weeks after the first start, but getting the car running is the
big milestone for now. The engine has been sitting for a year and the sooner we get oil running through
the galleries again, the better. We think that once everything is in place the engine should fire
right up. We drained the fuel out of the carbs last year so hopefully they won't need rebuilding
again.
Rear brake line will hopefully clear the fuel pump
This week we finished most of the plumbing, installed the hand brake, and hooked up the
steering. None of this is required to start the engine, but it's easier to do it now before we put
the engine in the car. We're actually very close now to having working hydraulic brakes, although we
can't bolt in the master cylinder until the scuttle is attached, and we can't attach the scuttle
until the paint looks halfway decent. Which it doesn't currently. Not even close. Maybe we can try painting it
again tomorrow.
Steering connectors clamped in place
The M.G. steering column also needs to be attached to the scuttle, but everything else on the steering
is done, including adding notches to the connector shaft so we could insert pinch bolts and clamp
the u-joints to the shaft. We tested the flexible brake lines at full left and right lock, and nothing
pulled loose so it looks like we're good to go there. We still don't have a cover for the steering
column where it passes through the engine bay, but duct tape is looking better all the time.
New clutch line will be prettier than this
The last of the plumbing will be the clutch hydraulics. We bent up the old line from the donor to
see if we could get it to fit in the car. We thought it might be too long, but it actually wasn't
too bad, just one extra little jog on the passenger firewall. As crusty and brittle as the old line is,
we could almost use it. It's only the clutch,
after all. But the dull gray finish clashes with our shiny new brake lines, and it's kind of lumpy,
so we'll order a new line from Moss Motors, only about $30 and well worth it on looks alone.
Our next step on the long road to getting the car running will be installing the battery and the wiring
harness. We only need to hook up the starter, starter relay, alternator, and oddly the tachometer,
since the ignition wiring apparently runs through it, but we'll run all of the wires through the car
now while we have the space to do it. Later on if we happen to get any other electrical components
to work, bonus.
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