An M.G. Locost Build
views: 14,697

September 29, 2012
Exhaust Ideas

Now that the engine is in the car, we've started giving a little thought to the exhaust system. This should be fairly simple on a Locost. Side pipes, one muffler, one hanger. In our original Locost plans we had intended to ditch the stock exhaust manifold and build something out of an aftermarket MGB header. And we still might, but I wouldn't take bets on us doing it any time in the next several years. The stock manifold will work fine for now, and will greatly reduce the amount of work we need to do, thereby dramatically increasing our chances of not making a huge mess of things.

  Rusty old MGB exhaust pipes
click to enlarge

We took a hacksaw to the rusty old donor exhaust pipes. I'm not sure why. I guess I thought it would be good exercise. It was definitely good to see how the folks at M.G. put things together. Oddly, in all our years as shadetree mechanics, we've never done exhaust systems. Ever. It's not like we've never modified an exhaust, but we always had a muffler shop nearby. So the exhaust system in our Locost will be our first, and will therefore not differ significantly from the MGB exhaust, except of course for where the pipes go.

The stock MGB manifold has two outlets. We'll run two pipes from the manifold out the left side of the car, where they'll join up to a Y-connector. We'll need some bent pipes for that, welded together. We'll run a straight pipe from the Y-connector outlet to the muffler, and a 90-degree pipe out of the muffler in front of the rear fender. The two down pipes will be bolted to the manifold using stock flanges, and we'll somehow arrange things so the complete exhaust system can be extracted as a unit from the car.

Shiny new Locost exhaust pipes  
click to enlarge

To get things started, we bought a couple of 1.75" exhaust tubes, which is the size of the exhaust pipe on the donor. It turns out these tubes have a 1.75 O.D. at one end and a 1.75 I.D. at the other end, which lets you slip the pieces together, overlapping them before welding. That seemed like an outstanding feature, so we ordered several more tubes like that, some straight and some bent. We also ordered a muffler, and as soon as everything gets here we should be able to piece the whole thing together.

We needed something equally exciting to work on while we waited for muffler parts, so we started paneling the interior. We bought some 18 and 20 gauge steel for this months ago, without giving much thought (and by "much" of course I mean none) to how we would attach it to the frame. There are several methods for doing this, including welding and riveting. Okay, just two methods. Of course some people screw the panels to the frame tubes, but that's not really a new method, just a variation on the rivet theme.

We decided to weld our panels in place. We think riveting won't impart the sort of torsional stiffness we're looking for. We're not 100% positive it's possible to weld 20 gauge steel, but we'll find out soon enough. In any case we don't have to worry about that now because we're not going to weld anything until the chassis is stripped to the bone. But we thought we might get a head start by cutting and trimming all the panels to fit now.

It turns out that trimming is the biggest part of the job. You can't just slap some sheet metal on there, cut off the edges with a pair of tin snips, and call it a day. You have to start with a piece of cardboard, because cardboard is a lot easier to work with. It's more flexible, and you don't need an angle grinder to cut it. Also, if at some point you totally mess up and cut too much off, you can throw the piece away and start over without suffering any major financial consequences.

  Fits like a steel glove
click to enlarge

We started by sheeting the rear wheel openings. We managed to use only a single piece of cardboard for both sides. These were a little tricky because we needed cutouts for the rear trailing link brackets, which protrude slightly into the passenger compartment, and also cutouts for all the intersecting tubes, and all the weld beads, which ended up being about 20 cutouts in all, each one painstakingly cut and filed to fit. Luckily we budgeted many, many hours in our build plan for sheeting.

We like how the side panels turned out, even though square footage-wise it doesn't look like a huge accomplishment. Still, it's a good start, and the experience should serve us well when it comes time to sheet the transmission tunnel. Which may be soon if our exhaust parts don't arrive in the next day or two.

About

Our Locost
Our Build Plan
Building a Locost
Build Summary
Workshop Manual
Construction Manual
Non-Locost Stuff

Our Build Log

Search log entries

Home       Previous Entry       Next Entry       Latest Entry  
Comments:  
posted April 26, 2017 at 04:55:51  
This is one awesome post.Thanks Again. Want more.
 
posted November 8, 2017 at 15:52:51  
You made a few nice points there. I did a search on the topic and found the majority of folks will go along with with your blog.